Not everyone would be happy to see three raw duck hearts that don't beat, that look at them when they open the kebab tub on a table kit, but explain the small wooden swords provided. If that's not your job, don't let him put you off. It's just a garnish for candied duck. And there is so much in this extremely generous meal kit that ignoring this gastronomic touch will have no impact on the pleasures in front of you.

A whole loaf of brown bread with snails The Winding Stair is an immediate indication of generosity here, so two things to prepare in advance: make sure you have the appetite and give yourself some time to read the instructions while eating in home -clips made.

A glass of wine would also be good and it is worth ordering a bottle with your box, as the prices are the same as outside the license, rather than the intermediate level that many restaurants use for dining. Clare Rafael Palacios Godello for 26 euros would be great.

The potted Dingle Bay crab, which is fresh and sweet, and dressed in a small amount of sauce, is a wonderful start to the meal. It comes in its own tub, so you can break the butter seal and gather on toasted slices of that delicious brown bread, with some lettuce leaves on the side and long strips of pickled cucumber that have the slightest hint of ginger.

There are a number of options for Legal Eagle dinner sets, defined mainly by the main course selected, although the dishes change from time to time. I also had chateaubriand (very good, 90 euros for two, and the goat cheese panna cotta was amazing). This time, I get for the duck confit, although the fish option also sounds very tempting.

Burnt hearts

We should all be experts at getting confused duck legs by the end of this blockage, and in this kit the instructions are clear, using an oven combination followed by the grill. And then, of course, there are the duck hearts, a little nod to St John, Fergus Henderson's restaurant in London. They are burned on the pan and served as a mini-kebab garnish. They are firm and do not have a particularly strong aroma.

Savoy cabbage, which has been shredded and fried in butter, adds a fresh plate to the dish, as does a large potato cake, which is topped with pieces of fried almonds. A garnish of pickled blackberries with a touch of acidity has a real place on this plate - it's not just ornamental - and a very fine juice, with a little drink and butter to give it body, beautifully finishes the dish.

The dessert is a classic sticky rum pudding, Legal Eagle, which is dark, yielding and fried in a sticky caramel and rum sauce with a splash of Chantilly cream. This is the most comfortable food.

Reading this, you might be thinking: another high score, is it completely losing its run? Well, no. What I really hope to do is review the table sets that are worth buying, not the ones to avoid. In the allocation of grades, it is quite different from how I would rate a restaurant. After all, if there's a problem with the decor or the services, well, it's my fault. It's a lot about food, and for some kits, the clarity of the instructions and the price influenced the final score. I'm not going soft. I'm just glad there are so many great food kits out there.

Legal Eagle has a lot of menu options, which include meat, fish, vegetarian and menus for one. This is a table box that you want to revisit several times.

A three-course dinner for two was 70 euros.

Where it comes from? The Legal Eagle, 1/2 Chancery Place, Dublin 7, thelegaleagle.ie
verdict 8.5 / 10 Take a night off to enjoy this old-fashioned cooking at home.
Difficulty factor A little juggling with timing, but not extremely laborious or difficult.
Food origin High quality Irish products are essential for anything.
Vegetarian options Yes, there is a vegetarian option and you can order it for one person.
Delivery Click and collect at The Woolen Mills, Friday through Sunday, 4pm and 7pm, and delivery to Dublin.

THREE TO TRY

Bloom Brasserie
Dublin 4; Click and collect, delivery within a radius of 5 km, on Wednesday-Sunday, bloombrasserie.ie

There are plenty of options in this reheat and food menu, with common and individual dishes. First there are chicken wings with blue cheese bath and sauteed prawns; in the network there are chateaubriand at EUR 24.50 per person, a bunch of wild Wicklow game for two to three people for EUR 56; and wild mushroom risotto as a vegetarian or vegan option.

Gregans Castle
Co. clear; Click and collect on Friday and delivery to pick-up points in Ennis, Lisdoonvarna, Ennistymon, Kinvara and Oranmore, gregans.ie

Gregans at Home dinner is back, with 5,000 euros from pre-Christmas meals being donated to Pieta House and Clare Haven Services. It is a three-course menu weekly, with EUR 32.50 per person, with dishes such as country terrine, free Irish pork, North Sea cod and a fine apple tart with a Calvados cream.

Pudding Row
Easky, Co Sligo; Click and collect, local delivery Thursday and Friday, puddingrow.ie

Some great options here. The box of burgers, at EUR 22.50, includes four pork and apple burgers from the Andarl farm, homemade flour biscuits, chutney and homemade pickles. Comfort sets, from 50 to 55 euros, which include gluten-free and vegan options, are delivered nationwide.